Hard Cover. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1934. First Edition. Near Fine / Dust Jacket Included.
First edition, first printing. Signed and inscribed by Ruttledge on front free endpaper: "Best wishes - / Hugh Ruttledge / 24.x.1934." Publisher's dark blue cloth, titles in gilt to spine, with fifty-nine full-page photographs, three diagrams in text, and four maps; original pictorial dust jacket with photo of climbers in snow to front panel, lettered in blue. Near fine, with light toning and soiling to spine, a touch of wear to spine ends, minor soiling to tail-edge of text block, and light spotting to page edges (photo pages very clean); very good unclipped dust jacket with some toning to spine, chip to lower left of front panel (loss to part of the author's first name), two small closed tears to top of front panel, light wear to spine ends including a bit of shallow chipping to head of spine, and minor reinforcement to spine ends on jacket verso. Overall, an excellent signed copy, in a very pleasing example of the original dust jacket. In this exciting memoir, Hugh Ruttledge brings to life the fourth British Mount Everest expedition. Ruttledge led a team of fifteen men up the mountain in 1933, and though the group failed to reach the summit, their attempt is recognized as an important milestone in the history of Everest climbing. It is believed that their critical mistake was setting up camp on May 20th, a day that had uniquely good weather. Notably, the expeditioners came across the ice-axe of Andrew Irvine, one of two climbers who were lost on the 1924 British attempt, which helped establish where and how the two died. In addition to Ruttledge's writing, the book includes a chapter by F. S. Smythe, and a section of observations by other members of the expedition. Reviewing the book, mountaineer G. L. Corbett writes, "There are passages as fine as anything in Alpine literature."